The Tour of Nilgiris 09 story
Going downhill. So Help Me God.
I squeezed my brakes super hard, feathered as I rushed down hairpin bends. 10 done. 26 more to go. All headlong.
5 more done. Got to stop now, to cool the tires. I dropped some water on the hot rims and watched it sizzle. Hissss. Adarsh said ‘I should try making an omelette on these rims.’ Looked at my bruised brake shoes. Worn down to 1mm potato wafers.
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‘Why am I doing this?’ I wondered on one of the endless roads. ‘What am I trying to prove to myself?’ I asked as my ipod died. No idea. No answers blowing in the wind. And then all thoughts aside, I started going...
Downhill. So Help Me God.
Photo by PeeVee
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I just finished Tour of Nilgiris 09 (TFN), a cycling expedition in South India organized by RideACycle Foundation in December 09. 70 riders participated. Both road bikes and MTBs were on tour. Most seen cycles: Bianchi, Cannondale, Giant, Colnago, Trek.
I was sponsored by www.chainreactioncycles.com – the world’s biggest online store for cycling accessories and components.
Did a total of 744km over Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu states.
Route: Bangalore > Mysore > Hasan > Madikeri > Irupu > Sultanbathery > Ooty > Bandipur.
157km
+ 120km
+ 120km
Rest Day
+ 75km
+ 95km
+ 53km
The ride was all on-road, over highways, mountains with hairpin bends, a Tiger Reserve, natural sanctuaries, few villages and towns, bridges, Gorur dam, and tea plantations.
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Not everyday did I feel like Rush or Lurch. On Day 7, I was Ballast. Uphill to Ooty. Breathe. Push. Breathe. Push. For kilometers and kilometers on gears 1, 4. You could have knocked down any of us riders with a feather. Oh well, maybe not Rajesh Nair, Gaurav Dwivedi, Arvind Bhateja, Peter Clarence or Shay.
Rajesh Nair – Gold-lobed, lean sportstar of TFN, with a one-sided grin. Co-founder of the ride as well.
Gaurav Catch-Me-If-You-Can Dwivedi – Something of a discovery in the cycling circle. Like Michael Phelps has his capacious lungs, I suspect Gaurav has something going for him as well.
Shay – The Israeli from Hyderabad, drafting autos and trucks, making the most of highways. A super-likeable guy who won the bamboo bike designed by Vijay Sharma. He won it for being the most sporting rider. He must have uttered a max of 15 words at the tour.
Rajesh ripping the road. Photo by PeeVee.
Peterpeterpumpkineater. Photo by PeeVee.
Bamboo bike designed by Vijay Sharma. Pic by PeeVee.
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As we went through villages, the children whooped and twirled, squealing with joy. Their white 32 shone, making a perfect ad for Happy Dent all along the way. They stretched their arms and we passed like rockstars.
No one; no one ever slowed down in front of the cheerleaders.
Back on the highway, on an uphill climb, I panted unglamourously and overtook a bullock cart. The concerned driver, stared at me for a while and then hurriedly offered me a hunk of watermelon from his high haystack perch.
A little distance ahead, I got married. In a welcome ceremony at a village, a small party of locals made me (a blazing cyclist.. ahem..ahem) putter to a halt. They quickly circled me with a big garland of flowers and followed it with a rapid round of applause. Smiles and flying kisses all around, I took off, continuing on my tour while happily married to..err..someone in Karnataka.
Further ahead, riders refuelled themselves at one of the Support Stations. Support Station 1 promised an endless supply of Pulpy Orange, Mazaa, chikki, Krakjack biscuits. Next station = more Pulpy Orange, Mazaa, chikki, Krakjack biscuits. Next day, next station, more Pulpy Orange, Mazaa, chikki, Krakjack biscuits. Would I like another orange drink? No, thank you.
Whirling-dervish kids. Photo by Aditya Pisupati.
Support Station. Photo by PeeVee.
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I must say that on Day 1 itself, I let go of the rugged, weather-beaten adventurer image I was set to don. You see, Day 1 ended in a bubble bath. Lunch was provided at the Support Stations or if you missed it, food was handed by the motorbike supporters. Navigation was effortless as we simply followed bold white arrows, marked on the roads by Soumya the evening before.
On Day 5 (Rest Day) local masseurs pummelled and rubbed us hard (“Ok pressure, madam?”) and totally melted our tired bodies, sending us into a blissful lull. The rest of the day we were water babies at Irupu waterfall and the huge pond. At night, I swung in a hammock as palm fronds swayed lightly and Supreeth pointed out existing and non-existent constellations. To perk things up at midnight, we chased giant tadpole clusters in the inky black pond, with torch light.
That's me in the pond. Photo by Pratvii.
@ Irpu. Photo by Sudhir Palliyil.
Massage @ Irupu. Photo by PeeVEe.
But bear in mind, the expedition was not a breeze. I distinctly recall the Ooty climb and our sore butts. As Nischal Pai put it “My butt is so calling for attention, it has a definite identity now. In fact, it’s a complete country, with its own flag and national anthem.” Perhaps, we should have taken the omniscient Dr. Harsh’s advice after all, and packed butt creams with us.
For the next TFN however, Siva Sai’s advice may be of greater use. I believe Siva will soon be releasing a tutorial on How-To-Escape-A-Tusker-On-Cleats. The last day of TFN, I did get a tingling, exciting, vulnerable, death-defying feeling in Bandipur Tiger Reserve as we cycled past large signs that said ‘Don’t tease animals and endanger your own life’, ‘Elephants have right of way’, ‘No picnics, alcohol or parking.’ An occasional car would pass us, its windows shut tight. But then, you know how it is. Once a cyclist or runner has his/her tempo going, he just cannot stop and break the rhythm. And so it was with Siva. Until he spotted a tusker on the road, charging in his direction. Siva promptly abandoned his Rs. 30,000 (or 50k?) cycle and sprang into the forest. His strategy was, as he later explained, to run around the trees in circles hoping that the fat elephant would get stuck.
In order to have an even better TFN next year, Manish Bhatnagar, a fellow rider, suggests that the Support Stations should serve 60 ml of Siva’s Regal + 1 packet of Electrol + Soda to ensure that all riders go faster than any chasing elephant.
All in all, as Arun might say, it was simply Ahhsome.
Photo by PeeVee.
___________________
A big thank-you to
Supreeth (Yeah I could try this. Wayanad?)
Gaurav (Hydraulic)
PeeVee (Please give me one shot while munching on RiteBite.)
Vasu (TFNers, that day in your life has finally come! You must climb Ooty today!)
arun J (Take me to my room someone.)
salim
kamesh
francis (Francis, give me lunch please!)
dr renu – soji (Doctor doctor, it hurts here.)
ravi & uma (Umm…beetroot raita!)
sridhar (jack lee)
aashish solanki
arun katiyar
rajput auncle & aunty
kartik
satish (Vroooom..)
deepak (Vroooom 2..)
soumya sharath raju
soumya white arrow
soraisam devakishor
rakesh
rakesh shah n team
mr. bhaskar rao
neelima
Stay tuned for TFN 09 illustrations on this blog.
December 29th, 2009 - 23:51
You got Married!?!?
Brilliant post Malvika.. you summed up pretty much the whole tour… except for paan story
p.s: Except for the Support Station photo credit, you managed to spell my name right. I’m impressed!!
December 30th, 2009 - 01:46
Yeah ummm… absolutely unreal. All the other stuff is nice but I’m just completely amazed with the ridiculous amount of biking. I don’t really know how you did it. Must love biking and be in great shape.
December 30th, 2009 - 02:50
Written sweet and neat….
December 30th, 2009 - 03:12
This is well summed up, and it almost took me back there, I wish it lasted longer….. this tour has made us stronger in belief and ability not to give up so easily.
I think the best part of tour was kids waving at you, birds chriping which you will never hear otherwise, appreciating nature and those eucalyptus trees, it was like arriving at heaven.
However, I don’t think I can have a single chikki or appy anymore in my life, maybe at next TFN only.
Malvika, you are a great rider and a great person, wish you many many more rides in time to come.
Great post! Wish you all the best! Keep Rambling!
Shahid
December 30th, 2009 - 03:21
Great writing!! was a pleasure to read and relive the ride.
December 30th, 2009 - 03:26
Great write up…makes me want to come for the next
December 30th, 2009 - 03:28
Hey, Nice one!!! You forgot to mention your Russian circus simulation on the cycle…looooooook, no hands….ever!!!
December 30th, 2009 - 03:33
I am not writing anything on FB.
Cool, it must have been a good south trip (may be a rural one)……….
Congrats….
December 30th, 2009 - 03:47
Great Show Malvika! iMpreSSed!!
December 30th, 2009 - 04:48
a great ride captured well! lived your experience.
Congrats, Keep riding, keep writing.
manas
December 30th, 2009 - 05:05
Very well written! Made me relive some of the moments of TFN.
December 30th, 2009 - 05:36
You were just ride one of my dream, well written good language too…
December 30th, 2009 - 06:14
Hey Malvika, this is Great… …finally you’ve earned the TFN stripes… CHEERS!!
December 30th, 2009 - 06:28
Malvika
Congratulations on getting married – on your cycle!
I remember narrowly missing hitting your rear wheel while you stopped to get yourself garlanded.
Was there a honeymoon to follow?
Well written account which brought back a flood of fond memories of TFN 09.
I shall forever remember you for your slogan “on the right” which I intend to out to good use on my rides as well.
Take care and look forward to welcoming you back to the south for next year’s edition of TFN. Regards to your dad.
December 30th, 2009 - 06:51
hey malvika…
your doin great with ur life…real good man…ankit ws stayin wt me…ws in delhi fr bout 8 days or so…wd hv loved to hav u here too…keep on with this job man…ur blog and cyclin…
ossum pikchas!!!!
love n care
December 30th, 2009 - 08:19
It’s really hard to sum up the awesomeness that was tfn given that I have none of your flair for the written word. So in classic english reticence and south indian shyness I leave the following keywords
ss2, mother’s bounty, swmin in the daM, tadpoles, hammock, torch, peeking at the neighbor’s kid between pillars of the compound, combound, popoty, pu’KING’, inhale-exhale, sidewalk, back “whatever excuse for a seat that was” ride into ooty, front”whatever reprehensible excuse for a seat that was”, rum-charades, conspiracy+teamwork, fuga!, bollywood night, easycabs
few among many…. wait till my website gets done!
December 30th, 2009 - 08:23
Malvika Jain: IRONWOMAN.
Awesome post. Thank you for sharing this incredible experience! I hope to do this ride one day when I’m fit enough
I’ve only just started cycling after a decade-long break.
December 30th, 2009 - 08:34
@everyone: thx
See you on other rides for sure.
@dev: u wanna tell the paan story?
@arvind: thx. will tell dad.
@shubhankit: another day for sure with u doing ur chef thing.
@Supreeth: ha ha..rum charades was fun! YOU really bring back memories man.
@marcus: no man no..don’t say IRONWOMAN in capslock. puhlease.
December 30th, 2009 - 09:13
Very nicely written.. Short, sweet n crisp ..
Am humbled over the compliments you showered on me.
And yes we all learnt “On the right” from you and have started using it. Hope to see you in TFN 10.
December 30th, 2009 - 10:35
@gaurav: hope to see you at MTB Himachal.
December 30th, 2009 - 10:36
Very nice and crisp !! Really brings back those memories (as if they were of purva janam)
Write more .. I had this constant faint smile while reading thru .. I will smile more
December 30th, 2009 - 11:15
Hey Malvika, ‘aahsome’ post! Very neatly summed up. You did skip the pan story though
and damn I missed the rum-charades!
December 30th, 2009 - 11:25
CHanced upon your blog about six months ago on cycling about in the himalayan foothills and how one guy sucked and messed up everything.
Have remembered you since and fondly read this one.
keep it up
love
roopa
December 30th, 2009 - 11:28
@roopa: Thanks for following the blog. I dont remember writing about ‘how one guy sucked and messed up everything.’
December 30th, 2009 - 11:40
you lived my dream.. Happy for you.. God bless and wish you many more such rides..
December 30th, 2009 - 11:46
@joe: Do TFN 2010. Seriously.
December 30th, 2009 - 13:57
Ssupah writup..
enjoyed every bit of it.. waiting for the illustrations.
~frNZi
PS: Sorry no lunch at SS4 today. Please head to destination. I have some orange juice,krackjack and chikki though.
December 30th, 2009 - 15:01
Malvila – Excellent coverage
Summed up tfn with all the emotions added.
Jack Lee Kush Hua,
.
Jack Lee Kush Hua,
Jack Lee Kush Hua
PS: There were reports of a male cyclist on single speed from the mysore district who was looking for one garlanded lass on a cycle at MC resorts claiming to be her instantly wedded husband. He claimed that even before he could have taken his wife to his home, she sped away and it took awhile for him to follow the trail which ended at MC Resorts.
Maybe u need to make a trip back there.
December 30th, 2009 - 22:44
Awesome! Totally J!
December 30th, 2009 - 22:45
LOL Sridhar!!
Hope to see you in 2010. And congratulations 
Excellent write up Malvika. Every day that passes I am convinced that I rode a different tour. After 2 tours I still have to learn how to have fun while riding the tour
December 31st, 2009 - 00:51
hmmm.. Even I have been thinking of making it to MTB Himachal. Let’s see.
December 31st, 2009 - 01:21
Congrats! Seems it was an amazing experience.
January 1st, 2010 - 21:43
Just got back from a trip and read this – totally awesome flashback
So many riders, reasons, ways, means and ends, all in one beautiful trip. Like Shahid said, one always wished it lasted a little longer 
January 3rd, 2010 - 05:24
This was something that was missing in our family. You more than made up for it. Thank you.
January 3rd, 2010 - 07:05
Congratulations on TFN’09.
What a Adrenaline Rush for 2010!
Inspirational.
January 4th, 2010 - 13:07
Hey Malvika…this is anirudh from hyderabad……if u remember, 2 guys,from hyd, we had met in ladakh last year………saw you on TFN website and immtly recognised u….planning to take up TFN this year and need your help……….how do i get in touch wid u?…..can i have ur email id or something?
January 5th, 2010 - 02:40
@anirudh: send u gtalk invite. for TFN 2010 just contact the organisers at contact details on TFN 09 website.
January 5th, 2010 - 03:51
Hey MMJ. Just got back and saw your blog. Totally awesome coverage – you helped me live the TFN. Did anyone call you remote control, hands-free, blue-tooth etc.???
Hope to see you on the PY ride this Saturday.
January 5th, 2010 - 04:09
@Ganesh: thx. Well, i think i was christened ‘On the Right’.. the Pedal Yatri war-cry.
What’s the extra M in MMJ for?
January 5th, 2010 - 07:51
Amazing writeup Malvika!! summed up pretty well. reminded of my MTB days
January 9th, 2010 - 05:04
Well Written Malvika. A Link (www.rideacycle.org) to the words “RideACycle Foundation” would probably make it perfect.
January 9th, 2010 - 08:27
MJ It’s getting difficult to decide whether you ride better or write better!
January 9th, 2010 - 20:46
Malavika, you are a scary rider to follow with your “Look ma, no hands” act! I remember following you on a couple of days, and got scared to death
But you are one helluva rider, and one helluva writer, and one helluva illustrator…so keep going, and see you around soon.
January 15th, 2010 - 21:50
Malvika,
Reading your blog has made me yearn for what you did !
Wish I could get away like you did on this tour.
Manoj
February 7th, 2010 - 08:51
Loved reading your blogs on the TFN ’09..You have an expert hand with words.Felt more like a first person participant than a 3rd person reader.
February 7th, 2010 - 09:43
thx
July 8th, 2010 - 15:25
Nice blog \m/
July 8th, 2010 - 21:44
thx ajinkya
August 30th, 2010 - 21:06
Thanks for sharing your grate experience to nilgiris