The last time I visited Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri it was about 8 years ago. The beauty of the architecture did not leave an indelible mark on me. What I was struck by was the number of dancing bears I came across - 12 bears on the short road between Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri. These large animals that should be shaking branches of trees violently with thier powerful arms or ambling down a forest path were tied to the end of a string, muzzled with ghungroos and made to dance for tourists on the hot tar road.
I visted Taj Mahal again in August 2007 and was very happy to see no bears on the road. We passed a bear rescue organisation and a large board that pointed to a bear and read “Bear dancing is fun? Ask him”. I was one of the many tourists who had felt bad and gone on my way to appreciate Mughal architecture, but Kartick Satyanarayan and Geeta Seshamani did not look in the other direction and did do something about the cruel practice. Kudos to them!
They founded Wildlife SOS in 1995 which manages the World’s Largest Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre for Sloth Bears in Agra. As http://wildlifesos-india.blogspot.com/2007_03_01_archive.html says, “Wildlife SOS has rescued over 390 sloth bears from leading miserable lives as “dancing bears”; they now live peacefully at our rescue centres in Agra, Bhopal, Bangalore and Hyderabad.”
Visit the site for more information on rescues and steps taken towards stopping cruelty towards animals.
The locals who used to be involved with bear dancing now look at Wildlife SOS for employment. Here is a photograph, taken from the website, of Ehsaan…a young Kalandar boy-turned-Bear keeper at the Wildlife SOS-managed Agra Bear Rescue Centre.

This evidence of bear rescue alone, made the trip worthwhile. Apart from that, the children who frisk around in Fatehpur Sikri offering to recite Urdu poetry for money made my day too! Who can fail to be flattered by :
“…Toh yeh hai Taj Mahal ki murat,
Par usse acchi hai hamari madam ki surat!”
(So this is the picture of Taj Mahal, but more beautiful than that is madam’s countenance!)
The Taj Mahal was OK. What I really enjoyed about it was all the optical illusions incorporated in the architecture. The illusion is so obvious that you dont need any imagination at all to perceive it. For example, one of the minarets has four sides to it, but due to the zig zag lines drawn on it, it appears to have 8 sides when you stand back and look at it! Touching the minaret tells you one thing and looking at it tells you another!
I guess Shah Jahan owed it to Mumtaz Mahal to build the Taj Mahal. After all she must be an exhausted woman after giving birth to 14 children of His Majesty’s. 6 of the children lived, 8 died. 4 of the six were boys, the youngest of them being Aurangzeb who had no qualms about killing his brothers and imprisoning his father to claim the throne. With a childhood full of artistic pleasures he decided that he had had enough of it when he became King and banned music altogether from the kingdom. He also put a stop to the second Taj Mahal that was to be built in black marble stating that enough wealth had been frittered over beautiful and useless pursuits and it was time to take matters into a firm hand. So Shah Jahan spent his last days imprisoned in the Agra fort, which lies a little distance away from the Taj Mahal. Everyday he would get out of his cell to gaze at the white marbled monument and pine after his beloved wife.
Mumtaz Mahal had extracted 3 promises from Shah Jahan -
1 To never remarry (She was the third and most loved wife, the only one to bear him children)
2 To build a memorial that would be so beautiful as to keep the memory of her alive forever
3 To love their children unconditionally
Well, Shah Jahan followed the first two promises and looks like he followed the third as well with no rewards.
It is interesting to see the Brit presence in Taj Mahal. The Chandelier gifted by Lord CUrzon hangs over the graves as a reminder of the toe the East India Company managed to wedge in during the Mughal rule. It is said that he arrived on such a big horse to view the Taj that they decided to mark the moment by putting up the horseshoes of his ride on the monument’s door. The horseshoes can be seen as giants among those of other lesser normal horses.
A happy trip to make, a skip away from Delhi with a mall that pops up surprisingly on the lonely highway. Once you get over the Hansel and Gretel feeling, its OK to go inside that chocolate chimneyed and sugar windowed mall.