Archive for May, 2007

So, Who was Chanel?

Thursday, May 31st, 2007

If you want to buy Chanel, you can just drop in at the exclusive Chanel packed away in the Imperial Hotel, New Delhi amidst marbled splendour. Parisian models were flown in and the lawns at the hotel were redesigned in October 2005 to announce Chanel discreetly to India.
Its been about a year since Luxury brands like LVMH and Chanel arrived in the developing nations. However, the brand makes sure that the snobbery sewn into the seam lines of Chanel remains intact. Coco Chanel, the founder of the house of Chanel, spent enough time being looked down upon by French mistresses and socialites. She made sure through a series of alliances, strategic love affairs and astute business sense to reach that level in the social ladder where she could do the looking down at. Pampered with furs and jewels and Rolls Royces, she created and enjoyed luxury.
However it had not always been so for her. She was brought up in the austere land of Auverge in France and had been a child of poverty and infidelity. Her mother was frail and sickly and her father a philanderer. She was a tough, fierce little girl who grew up into a relentless flirt. While she was involved in romantic liaisons with different men, each more successful and rich than the other, she enjoyed her independence and freedom. She often got attached to the men and on losing them, would find respite in work.
In an age where women wore frothy dresses and gravity defying hairdos, Chanel felt tiny, flat chested and an outcast. She made public appearances with her boyfriend ‘Boy’ Capel to overhear remarks like ’severe’ and ’spare’ about herself.

Indignation and vanity and perhaps, a hint of eccentricity, inspired her towards making daring moves like donning on elegant pyjamas and pants in the French Page 3 society. Pragmatism and logic were the cornerstones of her design; Androgyny wasn’t, she insisted. She knew that falling trees must be heard and she publicised her designs aggressively by asking celebrities to wear them to casual dinners where they would surely be followed by the paparazzi. She sought well chiselled lades who exuded inherent style and a superior attitude. Chanel was as much a brand builder as a designer!
She created the Chanel classics – No.5 which has been the largest selling perfume in the world since 1929, the lil’ black dress which is a simple design that took a daring designer to introduce to the world, the string of fake pearls and tweed jackets with sharp contours and skinny sleeves.
After an age of flounces and frills where women were corseted partridges, Chanel brought in a sense of minimalist style. She said of the fruit and feather laden hats that women wore, “How can the brain function in those things?” When the Duke of Westminster presented rare diamonds and emeralds, matching bracelets of rubies, brilliant sapphires, she preferred to put on her string of pearls saying, “It is disgusting to wander loaded down with millions around the neck just because one happens to be rich.”
She could never reconcile herself with Christian Dior’s designs. He was the next big fashion guru after her and got famous for re-introducing feminity with his waspies - the silhouettes with a tiny waist and large skirts. So Chanel is not just a fashion house but also a fashion religion with her own set of rules and ethics. Do you subscribe?

Kashmir

Thursday, May 31st, 2007



In Kashmir every cab driver is an orator. They are not the silent ones who pretend not to hear and dont speak. Its everyone else who remains silent and pipes up with schoolboy questions now and then…”Have you ever seen a terrorist?”..”What do they look like?”
Whoever the orator may be, the refrain is the same
Yeh sab kursi ki ladai hai. Yahan koi Hindu-Musalman jhagda nahin hai.
Sab paisa logon ki jeb mein jaata hai. Kashmir Govt. se 1 paisa mangti hai, use 10 paisa milta hai! Lekin kuch bhi Dal lake ki safai mein yaa aam admi tak nahin pahunchta.”
(”This is all a political fight for power. There is no Hindu-Muslim discord here. All the moneys goes into the officials’ pockets. Kashmir asks the Govt. for 1 rupee, it gets 10 rupees; but nothing is utilized for the cleaning up of the Dal lake or reaches the common man.”)
So even as we cruised through deserted ghost streets at 10 p.m, we were told that militancy had diminished by 90%. Every few metres, in Kashmir, stood an armyman with a rifle and a bullet-proof jacket. The frisking at the Srinagar airport was rigorous and they pulled at all the elastic bands of one’s innerwear, in search of concealed weapons. Yet, Kashmir seemed to be a valley of peace, calm and serenity. And a lot of untouched spread out beauty.
In the true manner of India’s mountain-folk, people were courteous and gentle. The behaviour is not to be confused with small town etiquette though, as the traders of carpets and shawls dealt directly with Italy, Milan and France and spoke clipped, refined English. A touch of Arabic and the Kashmiri language Dogri was noticeable in the English as they spit out the words in their speech.
Kashmir was a chance I pounced upon when i heard of my Dad’s upcoming trip to the Neurosurgical Update at Sher-i-Kashmir Institute of Medical Science (SKIMS). The first thing I saw on my arrival in Kashmir was a roadside South Indian food stall!

Trivia:

What are Khilona, Peacock, Monarch, Canada names of?
a) horses
b) houseboats
c) gardens
(Answer at the end of the post)

It was just my luck to witness a once-in-four-years storm in Kashmir. I was in the green-tubelit Hazrat Bal mosque with five eminent, mostly elderly doctors and Ishfaq when it started. We were all concentrating on being suitably pious and doing as the Romans do in Rome when the green lights began to flicker submerging complete strangers in spells of darkness. A dust-laden wind struck up. The hijabs had to held fiercely over the head, the burquas billowed, the worship mats rolled and snagged in barbed wire and the sky churned like a scene from ‘The Day after Tomorrow’.
Our escape began as a sprint from the mosque to the bus and ended up with us half-walking, half-slipping on roadless ground towards a houseboat we could not see. When lightning flashed we caught a glimpse of the landscape, memorized it and scurried ahead. Then we stood pigeon-toed, battered by the stinging rain, hoping that a ripped and sailing tin roof would not slice us like the Sudarshan Chakra.
When we reached the mellow inside-yellow houseboat, all the doctors, seated like aristocracy on the cushioned diwans, looked with mild amusement at what the storm had brought in. Fast forward 5 minutes and I cannot describe to you what wonders a hot cup of tea can do!
Soon a discussion-debate started raging - “Do justice to the 60 patients you already have in your ward vs Treat as many people as you can regardless of the limitaion in resources and infrastucture”. Discussion, wazwan (Kashmiri feast) and Sleep. We woke up to the news of houseboats having drifted to far ends of the lake overnight and many a shikara having drowned in the Dal and Nigeen lakes.
Tumour coiling and clipping, Glioma, Schwanoma and aneurysms constituted my rendezvous with Kashmir the next day.
A medical resident, Dr.Najeeb Qazi took me sightseeing around Kashmir. We started with views of the Dal lake- breathtaking and boring and repetitive and ended with Najeeb showing his school with a choke in his voice!
Gulmarg, 70 km or so from Kashmir, was a terrific place to ski, trek and generally show off in, the next day. I befriended some more residents- a group of girls who gave me the inside information that a burqua was no testimony of morality!
Back on the plane, I opted for the window seat. The snow laden Pir Panjal range  could be seen with its snaking spine.
My co-passenger Farooque asked me why I had taken a window seat, if I was sleepy, why I wasn’t looking out any longer, but then wasn’t my purpose in taking the window seat defeated, if I was single, that I should taste one each of the cream and chocolate biscuits that the air-hostess served, was I on a diet, how was the plane navigated…



Answer: Houseboats

Contact details and trip-planning info coming up soon.


Design course and centre selection at NIFT

Monday, May 28th, 2007

View complete NIFT info at http://blog.malvikajain.com/nift-admission/

Design course and centre selection at NIFT

In 2008, NIFT offered a total of 1350 seats for the UG courses over the 7 centres of NIFT. 240 seats in Fashion Design, 60 in Leather Design, 180 in Accessory Design, 120 in Knitwear Design, 180 in Textile Design, 60 in Fashion Communication, 210 in Apparel Production (UG Tech course). For detailed information on the no. of seats in each centre look at http://niftindia.com/seats.html

The next meet after the situation test is for course selection. Everyone sits in a hall and is called one by one to an adjacent room to get his/her papers verified. This is where you also specify what stream and NIFT centre that you want.The candidates are summoned to this room in order of all India rank in the entrance exam. The first ranker goes first.

In the large hall itself, there is a screen on which the availability of seats in various courses is displayed. This gives all those people sitting an opportunity to make up their mind while they are waiting to be called. So if you dont have a good rank, have your second and third options ready. Having said that, if you perform very well in your first year at NIFT you can change your stream second year onwards. You can change our centre at the end of the first or second year.

The first year at NIFT is a common foundation programme in which the stream chosen is unimportant. Fashion Communication and Fashion Design seats get filled up first. These are the most coveted courses. The competition gets even tougher for Fashion Communication as it is offered only at Delhi and Mumbai NIFT centres.

At the orientation programme they also ask you if (more…)

NIFT situation test

Friday, May 25th, 2007

View complete NIFT info at http://blog.malvikajain.com/nift-admission/

NIFT situation test

 

A lot has changed since I joined as a clueless student with a Science background.

I remember wondering what the situation test was about. Did they throw the candidate into various situations and judge his natural reactions? Imagine a dark room with disturbing lights and distant howls. No they don’t, in case you are still wondering!
So what is a situation test? Here is letting you know about the pitch before you go out to play your innings.

If you have passed the written test for NIFT, you will now appear for the practical test – called the situation test. It is held at the various NIFT centres.
In this 3 hour test you are given a set of things like adhesive, needle, thread, plastic sheets, straws, paper, ice cream sticks and aluminum foil. Out of this material you have to make a prototype of a design. Our batch was asked to design a shopping mall. Earlier batches have been asked to make a city bus, ladies handbag, magazine stand and a police kiosk.

You also get a sheet of paper on which to write about your design. It is advisable to write in a tabular fashion pointing out a particular feature of your design in each line.

Most candidates are eager to get cracking and begin to stick and cut as soon as they get the Question paper. It is a much better idea to use the time to think, ideate and then create. The whole test is about managing space and filling it with a few appropriate elements. Leave enough time to change your plan though, if your earlier vision is not taking shape.

*********************************

Nitasha Gaurav, an ex-faculty member of NIFT and the new fashion editor at Femina, has judged the entries of the situation test innumerable times. Here is her advice to candidates:

1.
Have a proper concept
Spend time thinking and planning
Make some sketches
Don’t just start without planning
And make sure you leave your work-sheets behind

2.
Remember you are working within a time limit.
So don’t be overambitious.
It’s better to have a good idea that’s simple than a messy complication

3.
Try and use as much of the material as u can.
Use all the different types of things provided but don’t force it.

4.
When you leave, make sure all your stuff is properly placed on the table with the necessary roll number, write-up, work sheets. Throw the rubbish in a dustbin.

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One information-seeker wrote to me –

Hey,

That’s really awesome!!! I am sorry I didn’t write earlier. I had a cold and was sleeping all this week. I let my brother Vipul know about you and also directed him to your blog.

I think the basic things he wanted to know about NIFT situation test are:

1. How much time do they give for the exam and how did you manage the time?
2. How did you go about creating your shopping mall model?
3. How did you create little objects like people and other things quickly and creatively?

Hope you had a fun time in Kashmir and back to normal now.

Vividh

Answer 1: Time

They gave 3 hours. I used half the time to think and the other half to execute my idea.

Answer 2: Going about it

Here is the design procedure of the shopping mall I made.

First I thought of the overall shape and size and checked whether I
had the material for it. The main thing was that the mall should be free-standing and look very 3D.

I didn’t want to waste time making the walls. So, I simply made the wall of the mall by making a wide cylinder with the plastic sheets we were given. I could have been more innovative with the shape, of course. A cylinder, I reasoned, was quite a stable structure, not wonky or to liable to collapse.

Walls and staircase
So I started thinking of how to make all the 2D material into 3D elements. Making plastic sheets stand does not make it 3D. I used a flat plastic sheet to make a 3D winding staircase. This I did by cutting a spiral out of the sheet. I raised this spiral from the middle point to give me a dropping spiral in the way some Diwali decorations are. Then I ran a stick through this spiral so that it could stand on its own. I put in the centre of the mall. I called it an escalator though, now that I think of it, I have never
seen a winding escalator.

I did not cover the mall so that the judges could admire my spiral escalator by peeping in from above!

Floors
I made shelf like levels inside the mall to indicate floors.

The floors were divided according to what was sold on each floor.

Now how does one show the product divisions on all these floors?

I made an icon/ a symbol to represent each product type and stick it on the floor level. I drew this symbol on a 1×1 piece of plastic with a marker.

Ground floor Apparel dress symbol
First floor Sports and technology racquet and TV symbol
Second floor Food coffee cup symbol

Front Face
Then I put promotional cut outs on the front of the mall. This is called giving the mall a façade – a front face. I enjoyed sticking a piece of rectangular plastic sheet that represented the front of the mall. I used a marker to give the mall a name and further stuck cut-outs of human figures in postures of wild abandon. This was the detailing I incorporated in my design. I did not mess about making noses and eyes on the figures.

Environment
I also gave it a boundary and a car park as I thought that the judges would notice that I thought beyond the mall, about its environment too. I thought about the person who comes to the mall from the moment he parks his car. Yes, it is very important to
consider the WHOLE EXPERIENCE of the person you are designing for.
One of the ways to go about your design and also writing about it is
to imagine the experience and design at various ‘interaction points’.
For example -
The mall goer parks his car.
He enters the mall (from inside or outside?)
What does he do on entering? He looks at a mall directory/map perhaps.
Where does he want to go? He wants skates and goes to the first floor where the sale of sports goods is indicated by an icon showing a racquet.

So maybe he just ran into the mall as he wished to go to the washroom. I added signs indicating the washroom. I threw in fire exits for good measure. I made the doors as plastic flaps on the walls.

And then he goes to the car park and goes home. Anything missing?

Keep the TARGET CONSUMER in mind.
Use the word ‘target customer’ in your write up.


Something New

All these elements like escalators and floors are always found in a mall. Do you have any new idea? Something totally innovative? An idea would really score with the judges. It would be the USP of your situation test.
Lets see -
Maybe you could have a babysitting corner on the ground floor
Maybe u could have a timepass cafe on the ground floor where it says
that people are here to mix with no strings attached and no future
obligations - this is for people who come with families. They are bored and
don’t want to walk around but would like to chit chat a bit.
A platform for events - education info stalls, Greenpeace campaigns,
college street-plays perhaps.
Thematic game stall - Valentine’s day, Diwali, Halloween
Or yes, a PCO! A basic need, not found in malls.

I made no details like people although it might be a good idea if youare good at details. However one has to remember that the main job to achieve is a good mall design and people should be thought of later, if one has time left.

Designing smaller objects

The situation test was taken in batches as there are so many people who attempt it. The other batch was asked to make a coffee table. Now this design would not require the intricacies and the elaboration of a mall but would require a simpler and more thought out design. Every curve of the table, every leg should contribute to the overall designvision you have. In this design ERGONOMICS is important. This means that the design and its contact with the human body should be easy and pleasant. For example, by curving the sides of the table inwards you could make it easier for the person sitting at the table to lean further inwards.

I would attempt a coffee table by first deciding whether I am making an elaborate carved table,
minimalistic curvy table,

portable lightweight table

or a multipurpose table.

After my decision I would mould all the features of the table along my primary decision. Do not treat a design in parts. First have the whole view in place.
I might also try to incorporate the MOOD of coffee drinking by making the table-top by laying a glass top over a layer of dark coffee beans. Now how would you make this? Make tiny paper balls by scrunching up bits of paper, pack them together in a layer and press down with a transparent/translucent plastic sheet. Explain in your write-up.

I am sure Vividh’s third question has been answered too!

The write-up

Mention-
Material (for example if you used a pink sheet over which you drew the patterns of wood, mention that the pink sheet is wood in your design)
Dimensions
Surface treatment
Purpose of design
Target consumer
Interaction points between the consumer and the design

Mood of the design (Luxurious, Masculine, Minimal or Plasticky)

If your English in not too good, Just list points instead of messing with tenses and stuff..

Tips

  • Finishing is very important in the situation test. Your product must look polished, a design at a pro level, not a crafty school kid thing with glue and cello tape all over.
  • There is not much space to write. It’s about half an A4 sheet, if I remember correctly. It is a good idea to keep the writing simple and tabular and meaningful. It’s quite a job for judges to read through so many write ups.
  • Name your design if u have a great name
  • Put in a USP - never been done before idea- something special about your design.

What they judge

Aesthetic sense

· Practical sense - usefulness of design

· Technical soundness

· BANG idea!

· Integrity of your design

· Sense of 3D

· Exploitation of materials provided

Hope that helps,

Best of luck!

Fly awaaay in my dreams

Thursday, May 3rd, 2007

This was the dream I had last night…

dream-fly.jpg

Imagine a boomerang_shaped_parachute_material_hollow_sofa_kinda_tube_thing. I held that tube from one end.. just like that.. no strapping or harnessing and holdin the tube, i was let off a cliff or smthing..

And i fly around.. wildly..the boomerang shape bends inwards and outwards,, depending on air currents and whirlpools and swirls
thats about it I had a more social and less adventurous dream last nite but i dont remember it.